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Landscape
Lighting Tips >> Planning & Preparation
Planning
Your
Landscape Lighting
First, some important guidelines: |
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Conceal
the light source behind shrubs, etc., where possible
- except where the fixture itself is a decorative element |
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Don't
over light - a little light goes a long way |
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Be
creative in using a mixture of lighting techniques for
drama and excitement |
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Arrange
for an automatic device to turn lights on and off, such
as a timer or photocell |
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Be
considerate of your neighbors - aim lights so they do
not shine into their windows |
The basic steps are simple: |
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Decide
what you want to light |
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Select
the appropriate lighting
techniques |
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Select
the appropriate lighting fixtures
and accessories |
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Select
the appropriate bulbs |
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Choose
the power supply |
Note: For professional results, it's best to consult
with an American Lighting Association Certified Lighting
Consultant at one our showroom locations. |
Selecting
Your
Landscape Lighting Fixtures
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Type |
Function |
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Cylinder,
Box Shape
and Bullet Shape |
These
designs help focus and direct the light beams. Some
also cut off glare and protect the lamp and socket from
debris and moisture. |
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Spread
and Diffused |
These
low level units are designed to cast illumination in
a broader pattern for: flower beds, perimeter plantings,
driveways, steps and paths. |
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In-ground
or Well Light |
Burying
these fixtures flush with the ground conceals the light
source. Use for upLighting trees and shrubs, an grazing
textured walls. |
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Spot
or Accent |
Versatile/adjustable
fixtures used for uplighting, cross lighting, accenting
and grazing. When mounted high up provide focused downlighting
and moonlighting. |
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Wall
Bracket,
Ceiling Close-up,
Chain hung Lantern |
Mounted
at entry doors, over garages and on porches, these stylish
units cast light outward either direct or diffused. |
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Bollard
and
Post Lights |
These
standing fixtures light pathways, steps, garden walks,
deck and pool areas. They also provide attractive light
patterns for driveways. |
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Swimming
Pool
and
Fountain Lighting |
These
fixtures are installed in sides and at ends of swimming
pools and bottoms of fountains. Wet niche fixtures can
be removed for lamp changes, while dry niche fixtures
require access to the back of the pool shell. Colored
lighting is popular for this application. |
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Timers,Transformers
and Other
Accessories |
Automatic
timers, photocells, or motion sensors which turn lights
on at dusk and off at dawn make landscape lighting convenient
and energy saving. See manufacturers' catalogs for other
accessories which may be required. |
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Note:
For areas of rough usage, vandal-resistant fixtures
are available.
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Selecting
the Appropriate Bulbs
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| The
wide variety of available bulbs (called "lamps"
in the industry) means that you can tailor your choice
to your needs. |
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Bulb
type and light output
You might prefer soft illumination in some areas, bright
in others. Watts are a measure of electricity consumed,
but some bulbs yield more light than others of equal
wattage. Remember the longer the distance of light throw,
or the greater the intensity desired, the more light
output required. |
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Efficiency
and energy savings
Some types are more efficient than others. Low voltage
for example, can save energy by concentrating light
beams, but it generally lacks the equivalent beam throw
of line voltage. Newer 65-and 120-watt incandescent
bulbs yield up to 25% more light. New compact fluorescent
bulbs provide soft lighting and the highest energy savings.
Mercury vapor bulbs offer strong illumination with energy
savings, but project a cool color suitable only for
greenery. |
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Cost
and durability
It may seem obvious that bulbs which deliver more light
and are more efficient generally cost more. Some cost
considerably more. But you must also compare the rated
lamp life, since some lamps costing several times more
usually last several times longer. |
Incandescent
A
 |
Standard
type commonly used around the home. Inexpensive,
but yields less light than other incandescents. |
Incandescent
R
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Reflector
type, either flood or concentrated spotlight.
About twice the light output of A bulbs. |
Incandescent
PAR
 |
Projector
type for maximum output about four times that
of A bulbs. Best for floodlighting and long light
throws. |
Quartz/Incand.
Tungsten-Halogen
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Compact
light source which provides a consistently bright
light. Also available as a reflector (MR) and
as a projector (PAR) type. These fit into smaller
and less obtrusive fixtures. |
Fluorescent
 |
While
long tubes are primarily used for walls, banisters
and signs, compact f luorescent bulbs provide
a soft light quality and the highest energy savings.
(Some temperature restrictions apply.) |
Mercury
Vapor/
High Pressure
Sodium
 |
This
family, known as high-intensity discharge, provide
intense light at low energy cost. Their color
renditions limit use, and they do not go on immediately-they
must warm up. |
| Note:
Most of the above types are available for either
120-volt or 12-volt systems, but you must specify
the system. Fluorescent, Mercury Vapor and High
Pressure Sodium are for 120-volt only. |
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Choosing
Your Power Supply
Recent
advances in landscape lighting allow you three options
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| System |
Fixture |
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1.
120-volt line voltage
(standard in most homes) |
Line
voltage |
2.12-volt
low voltage
(used in autos) |
Low
voltage |
3.
120-volt with 12-volt
branches or circuits |
Line
and low voltage |
| A
12-volt system, which requires a transformer, has a
number of advantages for the average or smaller property: |
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Simple
do-it-yourself project; lower overall cost |
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More
energy-efficient and often more light output per
watt |
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Little
or no risk of shock or other electrical hazard |
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Minimum
disturbance to lawn and garden (Cable can be buried
without conduit and junction boxes or it can be
left above ground) |
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Easy
relocation of fixtures when desired |
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On
the other hand, a 120-volt system generally lights
larger areas more brightly, and provides longer beam
throws. Commercial area lighting and security lighting,
for example, usually require the powerful beam throw
of the 120volt system. It is designed for permanence,
and rigid installation required by local and national
electrical codes.
One
alternative, where feasible, is to install a 120-volt
line and then add 12-volt branches or circuits using
transformers.
You
may want to arrange for convenient switching-in the
kitchen or master bedroom.
If
the installation is do-it-yourself, be sure to check
the local electrical code.
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